MATT ALLYN: Writer, Editor, Researcher
I try to rarely complain about my job (Bicycling mag online editor) because on a whole, it’s massively cool. I write and edit articles about bikes—riding, racing, fixing, and anything else you can do with a bike in polite company.
So as part of covering this summer’s Tour de France, I got to follow the race for eight stage. I joined out photographer, James Startt, and the video crew (pictured) in Brittany, and followed the race until it hit the Pyrenees near Spain.
A typical day saw us leave the hotel at 9 a.m., to arrive at the Tour’s start town two hours before the riders take off. We’d get settled in the start village and read L’Equipe (or if your French is as mediocre as mind, look at the results and pretend to read the articles). Also, because I can’t travel anywhere without trying the local food, and the start villages always had local cheese and meat, I’d make myself a little brunch.
In the hour before the start we’d stake out the team buses to interview riders and coaches, then head out on course about 20 minutes before the riders left. I usually traveled with James, so we’d stop once to photograph the breakaway and peloton, and then a second time if we could find a place for lunch.
Eventually we’d make it to the press room in the finish town. There’d be more running around and chasing down riders for interviews and then about three hours of writing and editing.
Quitting time was often determined by what time our hotel’s restaurant closed and how far the drive was. Dinner was almost never open late enough or close enough, so I sat by for more than a few harrowing drives with squealing car tires on one-lane mountain passes.
We’d stumble in the restaurant around 10 p.m. after several calls to assure them we were just around the corner so they should really hold the kitchen just a few more minutes. I’d eat whatever was local or definitively French—steak tartare, andouillette, lots of duck– and then find some way to include a local cheese in the meal.
No, I didn’t go to France to eat and drink. But frankly, after covering this race all month and working four straight weekends, I’d rather talk about the gluttony than the work. I’m sure you understand.
A couple culinary highlights were:
–Drinking locally brewed and distilled Calvados in Normandy
–Fresh, unpasturized goat and sheep cheese
–Eating a cassoulet in a 13th Century village while the power kept going out
–Finally trying hippocras, a mead/wine hybrid drink
–Honorable mention: all the other cheeses. So many cheeses, so little time.